Start As You Mean To Go On. Here's just a few tips on how to establish yourself and your family members as the leaders of your dog's pack. A dogs mother is their first introduction to a pack leader. She makes them wait for food, controls their play and how far they stray. It is important that you establish similar rules as your dogs pack leaders and always project 'A relaxed, confident attitude’, this nurtures stability and gives your dog security within your pack, resulting in less behavioural problems. From day one create a consistent schedule for your dogs daily routine ensuring it fits around yours and not the other way round. A consistent routine will create stability and security for your dog. Have set exercise, play, feeding and daily grooming times. Obedience Train Your Dog Knowing when to start formal obedience training – walking on a lead, the sit / stay command and recall – is dependent on the dog’s sex, breed and personality but as a guide around 4/5 months old is a good age to begin. However, boundary training should start the moment you take your dog or puppy home. You have now officially become a dog trainer and the whole environment you bring it into will affect its personality and behaviour. Socialise your dog and introduce him to various situations. Furthermore, there is no upper age limit for dog training. The older the dog is the longer training may take and the more patience you may need but to say you can’t teach an old dog new trick’s is a fallacy. In order for both you and your dog to co-exist in a harmonious relationship it is imperative that you enrol yourself and your dog on a dog obedience class with a professional dog trainer. Teach the 3 basic commands Heel, Sit and Come. For successful canine training you need Know-How, Patience, Repetition and Consistency and most importantly a ‘Positive Mental Attitude’ (PMA). Dog Feeding Rules In a household it is very important that everyone else has eaten before the dog is fed. Remember leaders always feed first. This instils in the dogs mind that you are its leader, it is your food, and you are simply sharing it with your dog. Points to remember when feeding. Be consistent and stick to a set feeding time. Make your dog sits and ensure it is relaxed before you give it the go ahead to eat its food, (never reward excitable behaviour). Never feed your dog in the same room where you and your family eat. If you normally eat in the kitchen feed your dog outside in the garage or yard. It helps sometimes if you move your dogs bowl to different positions in these areas; this prevents your dog becoming territorial. To help prevent your dog becoming dominant whilst eating, place your hand in the bowl or remove the bowl from your dog and make it sit. Return the food when your dog becomes relaxed. This instils in the dog’s mind that you are its leader, it is your food, and you are simply sharing it with your dog. Grooming Your Dog When grooming your dog place it on a table and make it sit to give you more control, this is also an excellent time to check the pads on its feet, and between its toes. Also check its’ ears, eyes and mouth. All this will help to humanise your dog whilst being handled. Grooming is an important part of the hygiene and emotional wellbeing of your pet. It helps create a bond between you and your dog because of the physical touching and interaction. In the wild, wolves and other canines groom each other as part of the social interaction of the pack or family group. By cleaning and brushing your dog you are exercising control over it in a positive way whilst reinforcing your position within the pack hierarchy. Where Your Dog Should Sit & Sleep Allowing your dog to sit or sleep on the furniture is bad practice. Dogs are very conscious of hierarchy and will attempt to find their own place if you do not do it for them. It is important your dog understands that it’s at the bottom of the pack. By creating these differences the dog will have greater respect for you. The dominant canine in a pack will always choose the safest and warmest place to sit and sleep, generally in a more elevated position from the rest of the pack. If a dog sits / sleeps at the same height as you it believes it’s your equal. If you sit on the floor while it remains in possession of the sofa you are effectively its subordinate. This could have disastrous consequences if there is a toddler crawling on the floor and the dog thinks it’s higher in the pack than the baby. If you live in a house with an upstairs Never allow your dog upstairs. Dog Behavioural Problems If a dog has a behavioural problem it’s because it hasn’t been trained. Before you tackle the behavioural issue you must first establish control and master basic obedience training. Only then can you look at the bigger picture and in many cases you will find the original problem has disappeared. For SucessfulL Canine Training Yon Need In order for both you and your dog to co-exist in a harmonious relationship it is imperative that you enrol yourself and your dog on a dog obedience class with a professional dog trainer and teach the 3 basic commands heel, sit and recall. For successful canine training you need Know-how, Patience, Repetition and Consistency and most importantly a ‘Positive Mental Attitude’ (PMA). Good luck with your conquest. FOR MORE TOP DOG TRAINING TIPS READ KEITH'S COLUMN IN THE NORTHERN IRELAND 'NEWSLETTER', EVERY THURSDAY FORTNIGHT. SOME OF HIS ARTICLES ARE PUBLISHED BELOW. Firework Phobias Dogs Every year the sky’s are alight with rockets, Catherine wheels and Roman candles, as bangs explosions and bright lights are accompanied by screams, sirens and howling dogs the country over. During Halloween and the New Year celebrations the likelihood of a firework or two in your area can cause your pets unnecessary stress and even injury, so what can you do to minimize the risks ? Frightened dogs can have different reactions; some tremble at their owners' feet, some become very destructive and begin pacing and panting, others retreat to a hiding place, some try to run off and others display unpredictable even aggressive behaviour. Any of these types of behaviour could indicate that your dog is developing a phobia towards noise. If a dog hasn't been safely exposed to many different experiences, including loud noises during his essential socialisation period (3 to 14 weeks of age), when he gets older he may not be able to cope with frightening sounds like fireworks or loud engine noises. Left alone, noise phobia tends to get worse rather than better, so you really do need to act to help your dog, if he’s frightened on New Years Eve night. Many dogs can benefit from a process we call desensitisation. This involves slowly acclimatising your dog to the sounds of fireworks. CDs are now available, which simulate the random and unpredictable noises of fireworks. Over a period, these are played a number of times a day gradually building up the volume and length of time it is played. (For further information visit see our 'Dog Training Products page). •Here are some other useful tips .Create a safe, comfortable and quiet den area for your dog. Ideally, this should be in a place which is furthest from the fireworks and where he is used to resting. The room should be able to be darkened to hide the firework flashes. Make sure however, that he is free to come and go to this area, taking care not to lock him in the room alone. •Feed him an hour before the event and make sure he has been out to the toilet. • Play music or turn on the TV to help drown out the sound of fireworks. • If your dog does not want to settle in his den or crate, then try playing some games or have a training session with his favourite treats as rewards. • There are a number of proven natural remedies to help calm dogs during stressful periods. These usually contain camomile which are tried and tested aids which can help to reduce fear, stress and anxiety naturally to help keep pets calm during what can be a very frightening time without sedating them. • Ask your vet about Dog Appeasing Phermones (DAP). This is a scent that comes in the form of a plug in diffuser, collar or spray that can comfort your dog and help him cope with his fear. Do NOT try to pat and stroke your dog in an attempt to sooth him if he is showing signs of stress. This simply rewards how he is behaving and reinforces his fear. Don't let him know you're concerned. Remember you must always show your dog that you are a good ‘Pack Leader ‘ by always projecting a calm confident aura, this helps provide security and stability for your dog. Toilet Training Your Puppy Or Dog Crate training is a fantastic method of managing the safety and well being of young puppies. When used properly the crate is an invaluable tool for establishing good habits and also preventing behavioural problems. Crate training is the best way to quickly teach your puppy to eliminate (go to the toilet) outside. The speed and success of the crate method far out weighs the traditional toilet training methods of ‘wee wee’ pads and newspapers, which only encourage your puppy to eliminate in the house. What is a dog crate you may ask? Well a crate basically comes in 2 styles durable plastic or wire mesh. Its purpose is to provide confinement for security, protection of household goods, safety during travel and to assist with toilet training. Now some of you may think that putting your puppy in a crate is inhumane. Au contraire. By placing your puppy in a crate you are providing the security of its own space. Somewhere they can sleep, chill out and relax and thus satisfying the ‘den instinct’ which your puppy would have inherited from his den dwelling ancestors. The concept behind crate training is that a dog naturally strives to avoid soiling the area where it eats and sleeps. By placing the dog in the crate, this instinct is enhanced. The dog will come to see the crate as its den, and it will try to avoid soiling it. When the puppy gets used to his crate, you can keep it in it gradually building up to about two hours at a time. When choosing your crate choose a size appropriate to your dogs age at the time. The crate should not be too large or he may soil in the farthest corner from his sleeping spot. If the crate is big, put a small cardboard box in it. The crate should be just large enough for puppy to turn around and lie down with comfort. The best location for the crate is usually the kitchen or utility room. Soon after getting your puppy home, get him used to his crate. Put a nice treat or something he likes to play with inside the door and have him go and fetch it. Say something, like “Bed” or “Kennel”. Praise him and give him a treat for going in. Repeat many times, so that going into the crate is associated with something pleasant. Then try closing the door, without locking it, as you continue to put a treat or toy inside first. Soon you will be able to lock the door for just a few seconds. Then open it, but don’t make a big fuss when he comes out. Gradually extend the time until the dog is comfortable staying inside. Then you can put him in his crate for a couple of hours at a time, when you have to go out or just don’t want him underfoot. If he cries or whimpers, don’t open the door until he stays quiet for a minute or two. Dogs are quick learners. Don’t teach him that by crying he can get his own way! Your new puppy needs lots of rest. He can take several short naps each day in his new den. You can leave something comfortable like a blanket or towel, and a favourite toy inside to make it feel like home. When he wakes up take him outside immediately. When you cannot watch the puppy, he should be confined either to his crate or a safe play area. Don’t lock him in his crate too often though. After waking, after each meal, or drink, and several times during the night say something to the puppy like, “Toilet?” and take him out to the spot where you would like him to go. (Eventually, when you say the phrase, he will show you by running to the door that he needs to toilet.) When outside, wait until he starts going to the loo, then while he’s in process, say something like “Toilet” or “Be Clean” and give him lots of praise. It may take a while, but after some months he will have an irresistible urge to go to the loo whenever you say the command word. This can be very useful when you are on a trip with your dog and you make a pit stop on a rainy day. Be ever watchful and take him out often for the first week. Wait with him each time you take him outside until you’re certain he’s really empty before you let him back in the house! This may take a long time for a new puppy, but the fewer accidents he has indoors, the quicker the housebreaking job will be. You can’t lock your dog in a crate and just expect the whole concept to work – it won’t. You will need time and patience to introduce the crate to successfully ensure your dog sees it as its home and safe haven. Put your pup in its crate at regular intervals during the day up to a maximum of 2 hours at one time. It’s a good idea for the crate to be your dog’s only bed. Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old, well past the chewing stage. You will not need to continue crating once your dog becomes an adult (and is trustworthy), but your dog will probably enjoy the continued use of the crate as its own den. If you decide not to keep the crate, slowly wean your dog off it. Don’t crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the dog in a crate while you are at home as well. By crating when you are at home AND while you are gone, your dog becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving them alone. This helps to prevent separation anxiety later in life. Although the crate is your dog’s safe haven, it must not be off-limits to humans. Acclimatise your dog from the outset to letting you reach inside at anytime. Finally but most importantly: Never use the crate as punishment and never discipline your puppy while in the crate, it is their safe haven and should never be associated with any negative experience The key to successful crate training for a puppy or an older dog, as with other forms of dog training, is to establish a good routine. This routine will enhance the ability of the dog to toilet in the right place. It is important to shower the dog with praise each and every time it eliminates in the established toilet area, and not to express frustration or anger when the dog makes a mistake. Good luck with your conquest as long as you follow the above plan with consistency and patience and adopt a positive mental attitude (PMA) I’m sure you will achieve great results. Early Puppy Socialisation Never under estimate the importance of early socialisation for your puppy. Introducing your puppy to lots of different sights and sounds will help him grow into a happy confident adult dog. If you’ve bought your puppy from a reputable breeder he should have already experienced a home environment. Ideally he should be familiar with children, television, radio, vacuum cleaners, hairdryers and other household appliances that make noises such as the washing machine or tumble-dryer using sound therapy. Speak to the breeder to find out about what the puppy has been exposed to before you bring him home. Even before your puppy’s vaccinations are complete there is still a lot you can do to help socialise him. Take him on short car journeys to the vet or supermarket. Puppies should learn to enjoy being handled by different people of all ages in a variety of environments. Research shows that the early months of a puppy’s life are when he is most open to learning. It is important to make the most of this time and introduce him to as many social situations and experiences as possible. Fears and phobias are often created by the reactions of anxious owners, so try to remain relaxed and happy and pass confidence on to the puppy. Collecting Your Puppy Going to collect your new puppy is an exciting time, but it is important to ensure you are well prepared. It is important to stock up on puppy food which your breeder has used and recommends, a sudden change in diet could cause your puppy an upset tummy. Have feeding bowls, toys, leads and bedding all sitting ready for when your puppy arrives home. Decide on where your puppy will sleep at night and spend its day. An outside run is advisable for larger breeds for daytime free run, it is advisable to have this in place and prepared before your new puppy arrives. Be prepared to spend time with your breeder when collecting your puppy. Your breeder will offer you sound advice on how to look after your new puppy. It’s also advisable to have a list of questions prepared in advance so as not to forget anything. Ensure you have a travel crate to transport your puppy home in. This will keep him safe and secure. Play relaxing music in the vehicle during the journey home, this will have a calming settling effect and makes your pups likely first car journey as stress free as possible. Ask Your Dog Breeder For The Following: A Contract of Sale It is recommended that the breeder provide you with this. Amongst other things this should detail both the breeder(s)’ and your responsibility to the puppy. The contract should also list any official Kennel Club endorsements (restrictions) that the breeder has placed on the puppy’s records, and in particular on what basis the breeder may be prepared to remove the endorsement. Endorsements the breeder may place on your puppy include not for breeding and not for export. Before or at the time of sale, you must give a signed acknowledgement of any endorsement placed. Written advice on training, feeding, exercise, worming and immunisation. A pedigree detailing your dog’s ancestry – this could either be hand-written or a printed pedigree from either the breeder or an official one from the Kennel Club. Copies of any additional health certificates for the sire and dam. Ask which vaccinations your puppy has had and which ones are still required. Early Puppy Socialisation Never under estimate the importance of early socialisation for your puppy. Introducing your puppy to lots of different sights and sounds will help him grow into a happy confident adult dog. If you’ve bought your puppy from a reputable breeder he should have already experienced a home environment. Ideally he should be familiar with children, television, radio, vacuum cleaners, hairdryers and other household appliances that make noises such as the washing machine or tumble-dryer using sound therapy. Speak to the breeder to find out about what the puppy has been exposed to before you bring him home. Even before your puppy’s vaccinations are complete there is still a lot you can do to help socialise him. Take him on short car journeys to the vet or supermarket. Puppies should learn to enjoy being handled by different people of all ages in a variety of environments. Research shows that the early months of a puppy’s life are when he is most open to learning. It is important to make the most of this time and introduce him to as many social situations and experiences as possible. Fears and phobias are often created by the reactions of anxious owners, so try to remain relaxed and happy and pass confidence on to the puppy. Here are some different situations that you can gradually introduce a puppy to after vaccination: A market place or town – to accustom him to being walked among crowds of people and to get used to traffic noises. Confined Spaces – under the stairs or in cubby holes to accept confinement in a small place. Different Surfaces – such as walking on a laminate floor, and going up and down metal fire escapes or open stairs & steps Loud Noises – including thunder, fireworks, cars backfiring or doors slamming. You can buy noise CDs that have been developed specifically to help anxious pets or acclimatize your puppy. Bus and Railway Stations – to experience travelling in a crate, and seeing and hearing trains and buses. Veterinary Surgeons – to prevent anxiety during your puppy’s check-ups. Farmyard – to meet other species of animals and birds. Household Noises – including the vacuum cleaner, hairdryer, doorbell and telephone. A Variety of People – including children, adults, wheelchair users, people wearing hats or carrying umbrellas, people with facial hair, glasses or wearing a uniform. Bridges and Tunnels – to accustom him to heights, darkness, trains, water and passing vehicles. Invite visitors, relatives and your children’s friends and their pets to meet your puppy. Children are not naturally able to read a dog’s body language, so ensure they are supervised whenever the puppy is with them. Encourage everyone to handle the puppy and stroke him in a calming way so that he becomes happy and relaxed with strangers. The Dog Crate An indoor crate can make a perfect bed and help keep your puppy safe and secure. It satisfies the natural den instinct of your puppy. Make it a positive place for him by making it comfy and providing toys. Get into the habit of leaving your puppy alone for a few hours every day, by putting him on to his bed or into his crate with a toy. This will help to prevent separation anxiety. When you return don’t make a huge fuss of the puppy, or you will give him more importance to your return than is needed and make an issue out of the fact that he was left alone. The Garden For many puppies, the garden will be their first outdoor experience and they will love exploring, so make it a safe place for them. Use your imagination and create an outdoor space full of areas for your puppy to hide, sunbathe, shelter and observe from. Don’t allow him contact with other dogs unless you’re certain of their vaccination programme and your puppies is complete at 12 weeks or so. Grooming Grooming is a good way to build your puppy’s confidence, strengthen your relationship and keep him tidy. Your puppy should enjoy being groomed, and this is a great opportunity for you to bond and spend some time with each other. Some breeds need more attention than others, but all puppies will benefit from a pamper session once or twice a week. If it’s nice weather you can sit outside in the garden and relax in the sunshine as you work. Puppy Nutrition By the time your new pup comes home, which is usually between seven to ten weeks of age, he will probably be eating 4 small feeds a day. Although he is growing incredibly fast and needs lots of calories, his stomach is very tiny which is why several smaller meals are better than one or two large ones. You can gradually cut down to three meals a day by 12 weeks and two feeds at four or five months, but if necessary check with your vet. Good Feeding Manners It is dangerous for dogs to snatch food, particularly from children, so teach your puppy to be patient and wait for permission to eat. This also helps to reinforce the concept that he is not the pack leader and will make future training much easier. Teach Your Puppy Calmness Leads To Reward Approach the puppy with a bowl of his food. Hold the bowl above the puppy’s head so he has to look up. This encourages him to drop his back end down so he goes into a sit easily. Ask the puppy to ‘Sit’ and then kneel down and put your hand on his collar before placing the bowl a little distance in front of you. Tell the puppy to ‘Sit’, putting him back into a sit if he stands up again. When the puppy relaxes into a sit and makes eye contact with you, give a release command such as ‘OK’. Eating the food is his reward for showing self-control. Remember “Calmness leads to Reward”. Guarding Food Although it may look cute if your puppy growls and puts up his hackles when someone approaches his food bowl, it definitely won’t be cute if he continues to do this as an adult. You should be able to approach your dog when he is eating. If your puppy starts to exhibit signs of food guarding behaviour consult a behaviourist immediately. Start As You Mean To Go On Early Training – Start As You Mean To Go On In order for your puppy to grow into a confident, obedient, well trained dog you will need to train him. Dogs are descended from the wolf. In recent years this knowledge has enabled us to understand many of the domestic dog’s behaviour patterns and its incredible ability to live in harmony with us. It is well known that wolves live in social groups or packs which have a rank order, or hierarchy. At the head of the pack there is usually an Alpha pair - a male and a female - which are recognised as leaders. In many ways, the domestic dog is a wolf in pets’ clothing, but through the pack instinct a dog is quite happy to operate in a human pack as well as an animal pack. In a human ‘pack’ the domestic dog needs to understand that he or she is not the leader figure but follows a subordinate role, accepting and trusting human decisions and actions. This understanding is not achieved through intimidation, physical force or aggression, but through simply affording the privileges of life to the leaders, not to the dog. Training your new puppy starts the moment you get him home in other words what I call boundary training or house rules. Formal obedience training should start around the 4 months/16 weeks when your puppy is more able to concentrate. Although there is no upper age limit its never too late to start training your dog. Most people don’t seek professional help until they have got a problem, which could have been prevented had they sought professional help sooner. Training the older dog can be achieved with a high degree of success it simply takes more consistency, patience, love and understanding. Don’t allow your puppy on your sofa unless you have granted him permission. Make your puppy sit before getting its food or a toy. Remember calmness must always lead to reward. It is important as your puppy’s pack leader you put restriction on his freedom within your home therefore it is advisable not to allow your puppy up your stairs, if necessary place a child gate on the bottom step to prevent your pup from going any further. When you return after a period of separation from your puppy don’t make a fuss of him, don’t look at him or touch him until he is calm. Remember calmness leads to reward. Puppy Chewing All puppies chew as part of their teething process, unfortunately they may decide to chew your favourite pair of shoes or furniture or your hands. Provide your puppy with lots of teething toys and if necessary place them in the fridge so when they chew it cools their inflamed gums. Toilet Training -Crate Training Your Puppy Crate training is a fantastic method of managing the safety and well being of young puppies. When used properly the crate is an invaluable tool for establishing good habits and also preventing behavioural problems. Crate training is the best way to quickly teach your puppy to eliminate (go to the toilet) outside. The speed and success of the crate method far out weighs the traditional toilet training methods of ‘wee wee’ pads and newspapers, which only encourage your puppy to eliminate in the house. What is a dog crate you may ask? Well a crate basically comes in 2 styles durable plastic or wire mesh. Its purpose is to provide confinement for security, protection of household goods, safety during travel and to assist with toilet training. Now some of you may think that putting your puppy in a crate is inhumane. Au contraire. By placing your puppy in a crate you are providing the security of its own space. Somewhere they can sleep, chill out and relax and thus satisfying the ‘den instinct’ which your puppy would have inherited from his den dwelling ancestors. The concept behind crate training is that a dog naturally strives to avoid soiling the area where it eats and sleeps. By placing the dog in the crate, this instinct is enhanced. The dog will come to see the crate as its den, and it will try to avoid soiling it. When the puppy gets used to his crate, you can keep it in it gradually building up to about two hours at a time. When choosing your crate choose a size appropriate to your dogs age at the time. The crate should not be too large or he may soil in the farthest corner from his sleeping spot. If the crate is big, put a small cardboard box in it. The crate should be just large enough for puppy to turn around and lie down with comfort. The best location for the crate is usually the kitchen or utility room. Soon after getting your puppy home, get him used to his crate. Put a nice treat or something he likes to play with inside the door and have him go and fetch it. Say something, like “Bed” or “Kennel”. Praise him and give him a treat for going in. Repeat many times, so that going into the crate is associated with something pleasant. Then try closing the door, without locking it, as you continue to put a treat or toy inside first. Soon you will be able to lock the door for just a few seconds. Then open it, but don’t make a big fuss when he comes out. Gradually extend the time until the dog is comfortable staying inside. Then you can put him in his crate for a couple of hours at a time, when you have to go out or just don’t want him underfoot. If he cries or whimpers, don’t open the door until he stays quiet for a minute or two. Dogs are quick learners. Don’t teach him that by crying he can get his own way! Your new puppy needs lots of rest. He can take several short naps each day in his new den. You can leave something comfortable like a blanket or towel, and a favourite toy inside to make it feel like home. When he wakes up take him outside immediately. When you cannot watch the puppy, he should be confined either to his crate or a safe play area. Don’t lock him in his crate too often though. After waking, after each meal, or drink, and several times during the night say something to the puppy like, “Toilet?” and take him out to the spot where you would like him to go. (Eventually, when you say the phrase, he will show you by running to the door that he needs to toilet.) When outside, wait until he starts going to the loo, then while he’s in process, say something like “Toilet” or “Be Clean” and give him lots of praise. It may take a while, but after some months he will have an irresistible urge to go to the loo whenever you say the command word. This can be very useful when you are on a trip with your dog and you make a pit stop on a rainy day. Be ever watchful and take him out often for the first week. Wait with him each time you take him outside until you’re certain he’s really empty before you let him back in the house! This may take a long time for a new puppy, but the fewer accidents he has indoors, the quicker the housebreaking job will be. You can’t lock your dog in a crate and just expect the whole concept to work – it won’t. You will need time and patience to introduce the crate to successfully ensure your dog sees it as its home and safe haven. Put your pup in its crate at regular intervals during the day up to a maximum of 2 hours at one time. It’s a good idea for the crate to be your dog’s only bed. Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old, well past the chewing stage. You will not need to continue crating once your dog becomes an adult (and is trustworthy), but your dog will probably enjoy the continued use of the crate as its own den. If you decide not to keep the crate, slowly wean your dog off it. Don’t crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the dog in a crate while you are at home as well. By crating when you are at home AND while you are gone, your dog becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving them alone. This helps to prevent separation anxiety later in life. Although the crate is your dog’s safe haven, it must not be off-limits to humans. Acclimatise your dog from the outset to letting you reach inside at anytime. Finally but most importantly: Never use the crate as punishment and never discipline your puppy while in the crate, it is their safe haven and should never be associated with any negative experience The key to successful crate training for a puppy or an older dog, as with other forms of dog training, is to establish a good routine. This routine will enhance the ability of the dog to toilet in the right place. It is important to shower the dog with praise each and every time it eliminates in the established toilet area, and not to express frustration or anger when the dog makes a mistake. Good luck with your conquest as long as you follow the above plan with consistency and patience and adopt a positive mental attitude (PMA) I’m sure you will achieve great results. Choosing A Dog Dog ownership is not to be taken lightly, a dog is neither a toy nor a fashion accessory. It is a living creature. Owning a dog requires commitment and a responsible attitude. Every year in the UK over 100,000 dogs are placed in animal shelters. In more than 70% of the cases, dogs are placed there because the welfare of the animal no longer suits the owner’s lifestyle or they simply can’t cope with the dog’s disobedient behaviour. Choosing the right dog to suit your personality is as important as choosing a life partner. All too often dog owners choose their new pet because of its physical appearance, regardless of whether that dog’s personality will harmonise with their own. Serious time and thought must be put into choosing the right dog for you. Canine welfare organisations and rescue societies always have dogs and puppies available that need good homes, but with a rescue dog or puppy be prepared for even more commitment because in some cases you may be inheriting someone else’s problems. A pedigree dog can be more predictable to its future character and size, but make sure to always purchase your pedigree puppy from an accredited reputable breeder. Questions To Ask Yourself. Can I afford to buy the dog I want? Can I make a lifelong commitment to a dog – a dog’s average life span is 12 years? Can I afford between £4.50 and £8.00 per week to feed a dog? Can I afford Veterinary fees? Can I afford to insure my dog? Is my home big enough to house a dog? Do I really want to exercise a dog every day? Will there be someone at home for a dog – dogs get lonely just like humans? Will I find time to train, groom and generally care for a dog? Will I be able to answer YES to these questions every day of the year? If you answered ‘no’ to any of the above, you should think very carefully before buying a dog. When Choosing A Dog Consider The Following Do you want: An energetic and lively dog or a couch potato. A strong-willed and ambitious or easy-going and indulgent dog. A dog who is friendly with humans or reserved with strangers. A dog with a short or long coat. A male or female dog. Rescue Or Pedigree Dog Rescue Dog A cross breed dog is not expensive to buy but try to find out as much as you can about the parents so that you can gauge its future character. Canine welfare organisations and rescue societies always have dogs and puppies available that need good homes. Both pedigree and crossbreed dogs can be obtained in this way from organisations such as Dogs Trust, USPCA, RSPCA and the different breed rescue societies. If buying from a breed welfare or rescue organisation, be prepared to be questioned and possibly expect a home inspection. Dogs in welfare or rescue organisations have often suffered neglect and ill treatment in their early lives. It is therefore the first priority of these organisations to ensure that the dogs in their care will spend the remainder of their lives in good, caring and suitable homes. Pedigree Dog A pedigree dog is more predictable as to its future character and size than a crossbreed. It is important to obtain information on breed characteristics, health and welfare needs prior to purchase by contacting the relevant breed clubs. The Kennel Club website provides information about the different breeds of pedigree dog, together with lists of breed club secretaries and links to welfare and rescue organisations. UK Dog Laws As a responsible dog owner, you need to know about dog laws – your rights and responsibilities, in order to protect yourself, your dog and other dogs. Animal Welfare Act 2006 The Animal Welfare Act introduced on April 6th 2007 received Royal Assent in 2006. From April 2007, the Act will repeal the Protection of Animals Act 1911 and the Abandonment of Animals Act 1960. The new Act increases and introduces new penalties to tackle acts of cruelty, neglect, mutilation, tail docking, animal fighting and the giving of pets as prizes. In addition to this it will introduce a duty of care for all pet owners to provide for their animals a suitable environment, a suitable diet, the ability to exhibit normal behaviour patterns, protection from pain, suffering, injury and disease and consideration of the animal’s needs to be housed with, or apart from, other animals. The Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005 Under this Act, you could be fined up to £1,000 for breaching dog control orders. Local authorities can make orders for standard offences including: failing to remove dog faeces, not keeping a dog on a lead, not putting and keeping a dog on a lead when directed to do so, permitting a dog to enter land from which dogs are excluded and taking more than a specified number of dogs on to land. The Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act also updates the law on stray dogs by transferring the responsibility for strays from the police to the local authorities. However this section of the Act has not yet come into force. It is highly recommended that your dog is microchipped and registered with Petlog, the largest pet reunification scheme in the UK, as this can prove extremely effective in locating a lost pet. The Petlog Premium service can even alert local vets and dog wardens when an owner reports where their pet was lost. This can be done by telephone, SMS text message or via the Petlog website. Contact Petlog on 0844 463 3999 or visit www.petlog.org.uk to find out more. If you lose your dog, you should stay in regular contact with the local council, Petlog, vets, dog shelters and the police, and put up posters in the area where you lost it. Dog wardens are obliged to seize stray dogs and the police, for now, still have discretionary power to seize stray dogs under the Dogs Act 1906. The finder of a stray dog must return it to its owner (if known), or take it to the local authority or police (although soon, only the local authority will receive stray dogs). It is illegal to take a found dog into your home without reporting it to the police first. If you want to retain the dog, this might be allowed, provided you are capable of looking after the dog and agree to keep it for at least 28 days. However, the original owner could still have a claim for the dog’s return. Byelaws on noisy animals If your dog’s barking causes a serious nuisance to neighbours, the local authority can serve a noise abatement notice, which if unheeded can result in you paying fines and legal expenses. Breeding and Sale of Dogs (Welfare) Act 1999 Breeders who breed four or more litters per year must be licensed by their local authority. Breeders with fewer litters must also be licensed if they are carrying out a business of breeding dogs for sale. Licensed breeders must: a) Not mate a bitch less than 12 months old. b) Not whelp more than six litters from a bitch. c) Not whelp two litters within a 12 month period from the same bitch. d) Keep accurate records. e) Not sell a puppy until it is at least eight weeks of age. The Control of Dogs Order 1992 This mandates that any dog in a public place must wear a collar with the name and address (including postcode) of the owner engraved or written on it, or engraved on a tag. Your telephone number is optional (but advisable). Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 (section 3) It is a criminal offence (for the owner and/or the person in charge of the dog) to allow a dog to be ‘dangerously out of control’ in a public place, a place where it is not permitted to be, and some other areas. A ‘dangerously out of control’ dog can be defined as a dog that has injured someone or a dog that a person has grounds for reasonable apprehension that it may do so. Something as simple as your dog chasing, barking at or jumping up at a person or child could lead to a complaint, so ensure that your dog is under control at all times. If your dog injures a person, it may be seized by the police and your penalty may include a prison sentence and/or a ban on keeping dogs. There is also an automatic presumption that your dog will be destroyed (unless you can persuade the court that it is not a danger to the public, in which case it may be subject to a control order). You may also have to pay a fine, compensation and costs. The following breeds are banned under the Dangerous Dog Act:- American Pit Bull Terriers, Fila Brasiliero, Dogo Argentino and Japanese Tosa. The Road Traffic Act 1988 It is an offence to have a dog on a designated road without it being held on a lead. Local authorities may have similar bye-laws covering public areas. Dogs travelling in vehicles should not be a nuisance or in any way distract the driver during a journey. If a dog is injured in a car accident, the driver must stop and give their details to the person in charge of the dog. If there is no person in charge of the dog, the incident must be reported to the police within 24 hours. Animals Act 1971 You could be liable for damage caused by your dog under this Act or under some degree of negligence. It is highly advisable to have third party liability insurance to cover this, something that is included in most pet and some household insurance policies. Animal Boarding Establishments Act 1963 Anyone boarding animals as a business (even at home) needs to be licensed by the local authority. Dogs (Protection of Livestock) Act 1953 Your dog must not worry (chase or attack) livestock (cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, horses and poultry) on agricultural land, so keep your dog on a lead around livestock. If your dog worries livestock, the farmer has the right to stop your dog (even by shooting your dog in certain circumstances). Dogs Act 1871 It is a civil offence if a dog is dangerous (to people or animals) and not kept under proper control (generally regarded as not on a lead nor muzzled). This law can apply wherever the incident happened. The dog can be subject to a control or a destruction order and you may have to pay costs. As a dog owner, you should be aware of laws which affect you and your dog. Heel Work Exercise is critical to your dog’s physical health and mental wellbeing. A large exercise run is not a substitute for a daily walk. In order for your dog to be balanced you must take your dog for at least two daily walks. This will help relax your dog and burn up any inbuilt energy and frustration. Walking is natural for dogs it is engraved firmly in their genotype. In the wild dogs walk in packs to hunt for food and water. The alpha pack leader leads the pack from the front during these expeditions. Heelwork is the basis of owning a calm, relaxed and obedient dog. If your dog pulls on the lead ahead of you while walking he is officially pack leader and will assume the role of protector of the pack using whatever means his personality dictates, this could be aggression towards people and other dogs or lunging hyperactivity for the same reason. It is important to teach your dog to walk correctly in the follower position. Ensure your dog sits and waits patiently before putting on its lead - Remember only ‘Calmness leads to Reward’©. Always walk out and in the door or gate ahead of your dog. This will instil in their mind that you are the ‘Pack Leader’. When you return from your walk make your dog sit patiently while you put the lead away. After the walk is a good time to feed your dog as it will have felt it has worked for it. Dogs are very territorial & readily mark their territory with scent. This is normally done by the pack leader. Don’t allow your dog to cock his leg at every lamp post. So there we have it teaching your dog to walk properly on the lead is paramount to owning a well behaved dog. The most important points to remember are: •Always position the dog on your left hand side. •Hold the end of the lead in your right hand the left hand resting on the lead for control. •The follower position is your dogs head slightly behind your left leg so that when you step forward you are always leading. •The moment your dog pulls or lunges forward spin right round and turn the opposite way and issue the command ‘Heel’ in a controlled tone. •You don’t have to be harsh or jerk or yank on the lead simply bend down low and teach your dog to follow your body movements. •Sometimes it may be necessary to use a proper training lead to assist with the heel exercise. •Practice this exercise daily in a distraction free environment for at least 15minutes per day before going for a walk with your dog. •As your confidence grows and your dogs heelwork improves regularly walk your dog in parks but mostly through the town streets to acclimatise your dog and achieve full control with natural distractions. •Remember your dog must be under your full control while on the lead you are the ‘Pack Leader’. Sit The sit exercise is one of the most important exercises in the foundation building to owning an obedient dog. By teaching the sit exercise thoroughly you should be able to teach your dog to switch off in any given situation promoting "Calmness Leads To Reward". In my opinion the sit command should be like having your dog on a remote control just like a TV. When you issue the command sit the dog should switch off – no picture no sound. When you issue the command OK (a command to release him) the screen should come back to life. What we want to achieve is a calm dog that is totally under your control regardless of the distractions. •Teach your dog to switch off in the sit position. •Click your fingers to sharpen the response followed by the hand signal. .Issue the sit command in a calm tone. Remember gadgets or titbits aren’t required. •The moment your dog sits don’t instantly praise him otherwise he will think the exercise is complete. Teach him patience in the sit position. •If your dog doesn’t instantly sit show him what you require by placing him in the sit position. •Issue the release command of OK, this will become the command your dog will associate with being released from a given position. .Build up the distance that you move away from your dog and increase the time that he has to remain in the sit position. •If he lies down when told to sit its fine as long as he doesn’t get up until you release him by issuing the command ‘OK’ •Remember sit to your dog should mean you sit there for 30 seconds or 30 minutes you don’t get up until I as pack leader tell you to do so •When praising your dog don’t over excite him and talk to him like a baby. •Remember in the wild "Calmness Leads To Reward". •Gently place two fingers behind your dogs ears and caress, this is a reflex point and a dominate region of your dogs body. Don’t rub it vigorously like a washing machine on a fast spin but calmly and slowly. •By gently caressing behind your dogs ears you are establishing your alpha pack leader role, but also therapeutically relaxing and calming your dog at the same time. •And finally and most importantly practice the sit command daily while walking your dog teaching your dog to sit and wait patiently while standing outside shops in the town, make him sit before he gets food, before crossing the road. Practice the exercise both indoors and outdoors as part of your daily routine. •Teach your dog to sit on and off the lead for both short and long periods of time. Insisting that he responds every time. Sit With Distractions As I often say why make the sky your limit when you can reach for the stars. Teaching your dog to sit with distractions is paramount to owning a well trained dog that is under your full control in any given situation; Let me give you a few examples •Once control has been achieved and your dog will remain steady in the sit position, distractions should be introduced into your daily training exercise. The more distraction your dog becomes accustomed to the more control you will have over your dog’s behaviour. •Increase the distance and length of time you place your dog in the sit position for and also increase the number of distractions practising on and off the lead. •The more distractions you introduce the more steady your dog will become. •Teach your dog to sit and remain in the sit position indoors while you watch TV or read a magazine. Make your dog sit while you put clothes on the washing line or wash your car or cut the lawn. •Make your dog sit with the distraction of your kids playing football or riding their bicycles. •If your dog is inside make him sit in one place while perhaps you answer the door and greet a guest. Make him sit before getting to play with toys or eat his food. •Remember "Calmness Always Leads To Reward". Personalize the distractions to suit your home environment and daily routine and with repetition and consistency you will be well on the way to owning the perfectly obedient dog. Recall - Getting Your Dog To Come When Called Recall and getting your dog to come back when called is one area that most owners have problems with. In order to rehabilitate your dog and get him to come back every time you call him, it is important to understand first why you have problems in the first place. •Remember it has to be more fun for your dog to come to you than run of after a distraction. •Use a treat bag filled with lots of appetising treats. •Initially practice the recall in a controlled distraction free environment. •Show your dog the treat, get him motivated with it but don’t give it to him, then let him off the lead, issuing the command play. •Give your dog initially a few seconds of free play increasing the time gradually. Then call him using his name and the command come. •The moment he returns reward him with the treat and loads of hand praise. •Don’t ask your dog to sit to get the treat otherwise he will associate the reward with sitting and not coming back. •The recall exercise can be practised indoors as well as outdoors, by using two handlers you can call your dog to each person and instantly reward. •With time your dog will soon associate the command ‘Come’ as a positive exercise. Recall is the hardest exercise to perfect. Achieve recall perfection in a distraction free environment first before venturing into the public arena. Include recall training as part of your daily routine but don’t overdo it, practice the come command 3or 4 times always finishing on a high. It takes time to undo your dogs bad habits, but with consistent practice you can achieve wonderful results Frequency Of Feeds By the time your new pup comes home, which is usually between seven to ten weeks of age, he will probably be eating 4 small feeds a day. Although he is growing incredibly fast and needs lots of calories, his stomach is very tiny which is why several smaller meals are better than one or two large ones. You can gradually cut down to three meals a day by 12 weeks and two feeds at four or five months, but if necessary check with your vet. On The Menu The early days in a new home can be stressful for a little puppy and any sudden dietary changes could give him an upset tummy. To avoid this, stock up on the same food the breeder was using and feed this for the first week or two. If you later decide to try another food, introduce it very gradually. Always buy the best quality food you can, and meticulously follow the makers’ instructions. Pet food manufacturers spend a fortune on research to help them derive the correct quantities and ingredients for a growing puppy, so take advantage of this rather than guessing how much to feed. Age-specific dog foods are readily available so choose a puppy food that has been designed to meet your pup’s nutritional needs. These are available as either wet or dry formulations. Puppies generally remain on puppy food for a year before moving on to adult dog food. Greedy Guts Puppies can be very greedy and some will eat just about anything, regardless of whether it is good for them. Ask family members not to feed them titbits as not only does this encourage begging, it also adds extra calories and may upset their tummies. C/A raised bowel. Drink Up Access to fresh clean water is vital. Refill bowls every day, and place several around your home so the puppy always has access to water. Don’t encourage him to drink from muddy puddles or rivers, as this can cause gastric upsets. Water bowl. Good Manners It is dangerous for dogs to snatch food, particularly from children, so teach your puppy to be patient and wait for permission to eat. This also helps to reinforce the concept that he is not the pack leader and will make future training much easier. Feeding Your Puppy The early days in a new home can be stressful for a little puppy and any sudden dietary changes could give him an upset tummy. To avoid this, stock up on the same food the breeder was using and feed this for the first week or two. If you later decide to try another food, introduce it very gradually. Always buy the best quality food you can, and meticulously follow the manufactuerers instructions. Pet food manufacturers spend a fortune on research to help them derive the correct quantities and ingredients for a growing puppy, so take advantage of this rather than guessing how much to feed. Age-specific dog foods are readily available so choose a puppy food that has been designed to meet your pup’s nutritional needs. These are available as either wet or dry formulations. Puppies generally remain on puppy food for a year before moving on to adult dog food. Be Careful With Tit-bits Puppies can be very greedy and some will eat just about anything, regardless of whether it is good for them. Ask family members not to feed them titbits as not only does this encourage begging, it also adds extra calories and may upset their tummi Always Provide Fresh Water Access to fresh clean water is vital. Refill bowls every day, and place several around your home so the puppy always has access to water. Don’t encourage him to drink from muddy puddles or rivers, as this can cause gastric upsets. Teach Your Puppy "Calmness Leads To Reward" It is dangerous for dogs to snatch food, particularly from children, so teach your puppy to be patient and wait for permission to eat. This also helps to reinforce the concept that he is not the pack leader and will make future training much easier. Obedience Train Your Dog Furthermore, there is no upper age limit for dog training. The older the dog is the longer training may take and the more patience you may need but to say you can’t teach an old dog new trick’s is a fallacy. In order for both you and your dog to co-exist in a harmonious relationship it is imperative that you enrol yourself and your dog on a dog obedience class with a professional dog trainer. Teach the 3 basic commands Heel, Sit and Come. For successful canine training you need Know-How, Patience, Repetition and Consistency and most importantly a ‘Positive Mental Attitude’ (PMA).